Explore Sonoma (Proper)

California’s Bear Flag Republic lasted only a few weeks in the summer of 1846, but the rebels behind the movement sure chose a great place for their capital. The Sonoma Valley’s warm days and cool nights are ideal for wine growing and the picturesque plaza, architecture and many great restaurants give it a big city sophistication but small town charm. And for a small town, the city packs in quite a lot.

First, the food. Must-stops include Il Fuoco, the Swiss Hotel (circa 1909!) and the beloved The Girl and the Fig. While it’s located on the plaza, Valley Bar + Bottle Shop feels like a secret with a great neighborhood vibe. The Cal-Ital restaurant and eclectic, natural wine leaning bottle shop serves top-notch food indoors and in a welcoming outdoor space. HopMonk serves great beer and pub grub paired with live music. A bit further afield, the Glen Ellen Star offers an outstanding menu drawn from locally sourced ingredients. And if you go nowhere else, head right for El Molino Central. The Mexican restaurant draws on regional dishes from all over Mexico that have no equal in the Bay Area–and beyond. “Molino” means mill and the restaurant mills corn to produce its outstanding tamales and tortillas. You’ll have to cross the border for better Mexican food.

Of course, Sonoma’s big draw is its wineries. The choices are vast, but definitely put the beautiful and historic Bueva Vista and Gundlach Bundschu wineries on your list as well as top newcomers like Three Sticks and Scribe.

If you need some exercise to work off all that food and drink, Sonoma’s winding roads are a haven for cyclists. Cavedale Road is a must for the hardcore rider. The nearby Jack London State Historical Park offers miles of hiking and biking trails as well as tours of the late author’s home and other relics. Close to the plaza is Sonoma Garden Park, 6 acres of demonstration gardens, walking trails and plenty of spots for a picnic lunch. Get groovy at one of the beautiful, 90-year-old Sebastiani Theater’s live music events. Or do like the locals do on warm Tuesday summer nights and walk to the farmers market. The people watching is almost as good as all the food and produce on display.